479 Samantha’s Mirror Pt. 2

February 26, 2012

On today’s show we’ll continue where we left off last week on the construction of the Cherry Mirror frame I recently built for my wife.  As I mentioned in the last episode we purchased a full-length mirror for our bedroom and after getting it home I decided it was just a little too plain for our tastes. 

Thankfully I’ve been holding on to a stash of Cherry for a while now and this seemed to be the perfect project to break it out for.

Last week we ripped and crosscut the stock to size (I also admitted to messing that up and having to re-draw the plans to accommodate for the mistake), we also cut the mortise and tenon joinery we’ll use to assemble the project.

This week we rabbet an edge on the backside of the frame to support the mirror.  That sounds easy, but I chose to use just the tablesaw and I had to create stopped rabbets for the stiles.

Then we chamfer the edges of the rails and stiles, but not end to end, instead we create a nice little stopped chamfer on the router table.  We glue it all together and then add some shop made walnut pegs to help reinforce the mortise and tenon joinery.

This was a great little project that could easily be completed in a weekend and leaves you looking like a hero to someone.

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Comments (14)

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  1. John Verreault says:

    Great episode Matt. Nice simple desgn and construction–it looks fantastic. Honestly, you made me a bit nervous with all the stop cutting and no feather boards or other safer hold downs, other than your hands, in place. I understand that starting these sort of cuts prevents the use of feather boards, etc. We all do it (I certainly am guilty on this count) but that “old war wound” on your finger popped up a few times in the frame and I was a bit concerned for you. Just my $0.02 worth. Perhaps you can offer a few options in a followup episode?
    Anyway, thanks for the show and please do keep them coming.


    • Matt says:

      John I had a feeling this might make a few folks jittery. I did try a second way to feed the starts and stops into the bit without “dropping down” onto it.

      I found it took a little practice to get it lined up with the proper start position, but it worked. I shot some footage, but I think it might have ended up on the cutting room floor.

      The technique is simple, you pivot the piece into the bit. This technique allows you to use feather boards on the infeed side and probably even a push block.

      I’ll see if we can come back and revisit the topic to demonstrate.

  2. Michael Borg says:

    Nice build. The frame turned out very nice. I really like the dark plugs.
    I have a question about your Steel City table saw. I know that you have had it for a while now and I was wondering what/how you feel about it?
    Do you like the stone table top and do you have any regrets in the purchase? How is the torque?
    I’m thinking about upgrading from my contract grade Craftsman to something a little more “everything”.
    Any input that you have both positive and negative will help.
    Thank You
    Michael C. Borg

    • Matt says:

      I get questions all the time about the tablesaw, probably means it’s time for a short video to answer them lol.

      But to your questions. I love it. I bought it on recommendation from my sponsor Highland Woodworking (it was payment for a long term sponsorship to be exact).

      The heavy granite top makes for a quieter, smoother operation. People are very mistaken that the granite is somehow brittle and will break if you drop a board on it…far from it!

      Recently I was pounding something with a mallet on one of the wings. It was so steady and secure I forgot what I was pounding on.

      The safety devices are very easy to remove and adjust, the riving knife is exactly what I was hoping for. The upgraded fence works as expected and has been amazingly accurate. No deflection at all.

      The motor I have is just a basic 1-1/2hp 110v. No complaints when cutting stock, even a fully loaded stacked dado head cutter.

      Dust collection isn’t bad, I’m not convinced it can ever be perfect on a table saw so as long as I’m not choking on it or sweeping up mountains of chips I’m happy.

      Good luck with your search.

      • Michael Borg says:

        I just got done watching the build for the Hock Smoothing kit an decided to check your response to my last post. Sorry it took so long to get back to you. Im still considering the Steelcity table saw and your input is greatly appreciated.
        Thank you
        Michael C. Borg

  3. Bryan Patten says:

    Great episodes, the frame is outstanding! Thanks.
    Also, I was wondering where you got that cool little wood & brass marking gauge
    that shows up at about 12:30 in part 2?
    – anyway thanks again and keep up the good work.

  4. Julien says:

    Hey Matt,

    Thanks for the tip about the Hamilton Marking gauge. I just ordered a 4″ one made out of cherry. It’s a much nicer design than the round Veritas marking gauge!

    When using a flush cut saw, it is absolutely critical to put all your fingers BEHIND the blade. I once injured myself pretty badly because the saw finished cutting the peg and hit my index finger. I’ve since recovered from it and my finger is fine, but every time I see that, I feel the urge to warn people. These Japanese flush cut saws are CRAZY SHARP, and will slice your finger like butta! Just sayin’…


    • Matt says:

      I’m way behind replying to your comment Julien, but you’re absolutely correct about the sharpness and ease to which one can cut themselves with the flush cutting saws. I’ve cut myself at least once or twice just putting it away!

  5. DTChristensen says:

    Hi Matt,

    Very nice job as always with the woodworking portion of this project (as always!), but you left out how you attached the mirror to the frame… You showed the rabbets but not how you affixed the mirror. Did you use a bit of moulding as a glass stop? Did you silicone the mirror into place? Or did you just will it into place?

    I’ve always been cautious about beveled mirrors and beveled raised panels in a frame, since it seems like you have to be extremely precise not only in your woodworking, but in measuring for the mirror so that you ht the same “elevation” on that bevel all the way around. I wonder if you can comment or address that issue.

    To Michael: I made the decision to step up from a contractor saw to a Powermatic cabinet saw several years back, and have never been happier. Primarily I did this for the added safety features; a riving knife and easy-change splitter changeout makes a huge difference and helps me keep my fingers. Not knowing the age of your Craftsman saw, you might not be gaining a whole lot by taking the expensive step to upgrade! To me, the safety improvements of modern saws were worth it and I got the added benefits of extra power and extra mass (thus reduced vibration) that come with a cabinet saw. In retrospect, I wish I’d gone all the way to a SawStop. I’ve never had a “close call” and never plan to, but it just takes one tiny mistake… Additionally, the SawStop over-blade dust collector is the best on the market and I’m working now to modify it to fit my Powermatic setup! Good luck with your decision.

    • Matt says:

      I did leave everyone hanging on that part didn’t I? It was actually on purpose (that’s my story and I’m sticking to it lol).

      The next episode will come back to address this question and also a couple of options for accomplishing this task and some other steps in the build process.

      You’re right about the beveled edges, they can be really tricky to deal with in a frame. It took a little patience and some trial and error to get it centered just right.

  6. I like it when people get together and share
    views. Geat site, keep it up!

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