506 Teak Shoe Rack Pt 1

May 14, 2013

Thanks to a generous donation of some amazingly beautiful Teak boards from a friend of the show, I have an opportunity to work with an species of wood I probably would ordinarily not use.

Teak shoe rack

Teak shoe rack

It’s not that I don’t want to use different species, I just have a few that I’m readily familiar with and just haven’t had a reason to step out of my comfort zone before.

So the first thing I’m building with these gorgeous boards is a…shoe rack!

Tools featured in today’s show:
JET Benchtop Oscillating Spindle Sander with Spindle Assortment, 110-Volt 1 Phase
SawStop Cabinet Table Saw
Steel City Tool Works 14-Inch Band Saw
Wood Slicer Resaw Bandsaw Blade
Bora Pistol Grip Clamps
Micro Jig ZeroPlay Guide Bar System

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Comments (9)

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  1. Ben says:

    Nice rack!

  2. Larry Thayer says:

    Give me your opinion about the stop block. The depth of your stop block seems to be about 3/4 to an inch. If the wood being cut twists diagonally, couldn’t there be a bind between the rip fence and the blade? If the stop block was thicker, wouldn’t there be more open space to allow the wood to turn more and not contact either the rip fence or the blade? I have been using an “L” shaped stop block clamped to the rip fence. The “L” has about three inches on the part of the “L” I use to offset the wood being cut. That means I have to twist or turn a 1 X 4 almost totally sideways for it to contact the blade and rip fence at the same time to have it bind. What do you think. Is the distance you offset the wood being cut critical?

    • Matt says:

      I can see what you’re talking about with all that extra room by having the “L” shaped stop block. I still think the size stop block I’m using is more than adequate to handle the twist that could potentially happen if there was a kick-back.

      Typically that small amount will be just enough to keep the board from becoming wedged in place as it’s turned diagonally by the blade. But I can see how having a lot more space would be a peace of mind.

      • Larry Thayer says:

        I saw how you so carefully lifted the board after passing the blade, and I must admit, my pucker parts slightly puckered as I watched. It just seems a slight twitch or twist, or something I am sure you are not as prone to as am I … inattention … would make the board’s diagonal corners touch and bind between the blade and fence. I use the “L” I made from plywood, at a true 90 degree angle, to assist me in many other projects as well. I guess, in my dusty shop, I will spell “PuckerLess” with a capital “L.”

  3. Bryan Patten says:

    I loved the flexible ruler/ clamp curve trick, Thanks!
    I’ve been having trouble marking on dark or contrasting wood, (walnut,mahog.,bubinga,etc.)
    soft,artists colored pencil set worked o.k., till I sharpened away all the bright, visible colors. LOL.
    I just wondered what you were using.
    Great video!

  4. Matt Hartley says:

    Great start to this project… with my tools in a moving bin (in storage) this is the only woodworking I get.

    How come you never use your miter saw?

    • Matt says:

      I’ll use my miter saw, but I’m just not a fan of it. If I can get the same result on my tablesaw, which I’m already at most of the time, I’m just going to do that vs. carrying everything over to the other tool.

  5. Tim Harvey says:

    Hey Matt: Show us your rack!!!

    Love teak. Looking forward to the finished project.

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