On today’s show, we’re talking about Nordfab ductwork, European style saws, availability of quartersawn wood, round vs square dog holes, thin kerf blades, smoothing expensive wood, cutting up burl, and graduating from shop projects to real furniture projects.
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Nick – This is in response to episode #129, where Shannon mentioned that he didn’t like using epoxy because of the expense, and furthermore the fact that you end up wasting a ton of epoxy because of the “one big pump + one small pump” mixing method. I first used West System Epoxy a year or two ago when I needed to fill some knot holes on a beautiful piece of Walnut that I was gifted.
- Sent in from Ken on Facebook “The Project Gutenberg eBook of Woodwork Joints” www.gutenberg.org/files/21531/21531-h/21531-h.htm
- Todd Butler starter tools giveaway “The Butler Did It Woodworks”
- Lorenz – I am trying to get a tool database off the ground and could use some feedback. A few years ago I had trouble finding a good table saw . Since Google did not let me search everything there is I decided to build by own database; who wouldn’t? I was wondering, if a resource like this is useful to you all. www.hingmy.com
I ran in to the same problem with wasting of epoxy – I found that I was creating a lot of epoxy casts of my mixing cups, and wasting a lot of money in the process. Not long ago, I serendipitously found this product in a boating store in Jamestown, RI:
The small scale allows you to create any size batch you want, eliminating the wastage problem. The only downside that I see is that if you have a basement workshop like me (and Matt), someone peeking through the windows might mistake your shop for a meth lab.
Don – (Follow up to his Buck Bros chisel) I heard you wanted the results and Matt helped me trim out the scary data. I unfairly compared Buck Bros yellow handled chisels to my new Stanley Sweetheart 750 series chisels and some used Stanley Bailey 16-401 Series Bench Chisels.
The test I did was simply using a hammer, using the same number of strikes each, chopping on a piece of old red oak like I was mortising. I tested three angles: 25, 30 and 35 degrees each with microbevels.
At 25 degrees, the Buck Bro’s actually ‘appeared’ better, however both Stanley’s cut much much better. The differences in visual damage and performance diminished incrementally as the angles increased as one might expect. In the end both Stanley’s exhibited better cutting performance throughout (better steel one might presume).
One key difference is that I could never get the Buck Bros chisels sharper than say “utility knife sharp”, that’s sharp enough the scrape some stubble off your face, but the Stanley’s I could get “surgical sharp”, which is where the hair just falls off your face as you glide the chisel over it. (Yeah that’s for you Marc.)
Michael – asking about opinions on Nordfab ductwork or an alternatives.
I’m looking at a European-style tablesaw (Hammer, if you must know) and I’m wondering what are the advantages of an ETS? Safety, perhaps. No sleds? Fewer jigs? Just wondering what the boiled-down reason might be for considering them? Generally they are more expensive, but look to be of better quality and there are claims of better/repeatable accuracy. What’s your $0.02? — Tom
I’m planning to build a solid maple Roubo style workbench complete with a leg vice and a tail vice and I’m stuck on whether I should put round holes or square holes in it for holding projects. Veritas offers various accessories for round holes but most of the traditional benches I see have square holes. What do you suggest? — Dan
To your knowledge, do sawmills regularly quarter saw species other than oak? If so, where does it all go? Or do they just flat saw everything because there is less waste that way? I ask because it seems that quartersawn lumber is the panacea for wood movement issues. Given its stability, I would expect there should be demand for quartersawn lumber, regardless of species. However, I can only regularly find it in oak, sycamore, and domestic beech. — Mike
After many years with the same table saw blade it’s time to spring for a new one. I have traditionally used a narrow kerf blade for one reason it’s what I had! Any thoughts on the advantages and disadvantages of regular vs. thin kerf blades. Looking at the Forrest blades they have a stabilizer, is this a must have? — Richard
My wife bought me a piece of curly Koa while she was in Hawaii. I want to get the most out of this expensive piece of wood, so I am going to cut it into veneer, but I am concerned about cleaning up the faces. I can see tear out on the wood from the mill, so I am scared to put it on my jointer or planer for fear of getting more tear out and ruining a layer of two of veneer. This may be an excuse to buy that Lie Nielsen 4 ½ smoother. Do you think it will work? Do I need to also buy a second 55 degree frog or a toothed blade? This would be stretching the budget, so a not-so-wide belt sander is probably out of the question. Any thoughts and suggestions would be greatly appreciated. —- Tom
I have been given a maple tree with a large burl to harvest. We plan to cut the tree down shortly, and we will leave several feet either end of the burl. The questions is how to process (cut) this thing. What is the best way to instruct the saw mill to process this for making book matched table tops and such? (I actually had someone at Woodcraft suggest I make a bowl out of it…seriously? LOL woodturners…what a scary lot). So what do you think? Plane sawn, quarter sawn? And how thick? 8 quarter, 12?. — Don
I’ve been woodworking for about 18 months now and I’ve found that at least 80% of my projects seem to be things for my workshop. Am I the only woodworker that struggles with actually producing functional useable furniture for the house/better half? How do you guys keep on track and find the time to stop trying to perfect your workshop and get onto making such nice stuff? — Clinton
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