Wood Talk No. 131

May 9, 20130 Comments

On today’s show, we’re talking about restoring a cupped table top, a box for severed fingers, using router bits with shapers, t-slot miter bars, compact table saws, bevel angles on bevel down planes, jointer options, dado blade safety, and designing difficulty.

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Kickback

  • NickConcerning the epoxy scale mentioned in Ep. 130: Marc is completely correct in that the heart of the kit is nothing more than a small scale that can probably be had for a lot less if bought alone. The mix ratio is the same by weight as it is by volume for the faster hardeners (205, and 206), but the weight ratio seems to be different than the volume for the really slow ones.

    The scale also has the instructions printed on it, which will be especially handy when years of breathing epoxy fumes degrades my ability to remember basic instructions or do simple math.

  • TomConcerning the thin kerf blade discussion in Ep. 130: If you have a calibrated rule on your fence rail, that is traditionally set up for a 1/8 inch thick blade, changing to thin kerf changes that. If you’ll only use thin kerf, then a one-time reset takes care of it. But if you switch back and forth, the likelihood of getting bitten if high.



  • Voicemail

  • Chris has a question about restoring an old cupped/twisted table top.
  • Med Tech Woodworker is looking for a box to hold his severed fingers.
  • Roberto wants to know if shapers can accept standard router bit.



  • Email

  • I am thinking of building a crosscut sled for my table saw. I have the option of buying spare parts from my saw’s manufacturer to use T-rail slots, what comes with my miter gauge itself. The pro I see is that it will be extra secure in the miter slots. The con is that the sled will not be able to be lifted out of the miter slots, even if I want to, and must be run out the near or far edge. Would this lack of vertical moment pose a safety risk somehow, in a way I am not able to determine?Curt
  • I’ve got a 2 car garage devoted to my shop, but one of the bays I use pretty regularly for auto maintenance, so it’s really a dual purpose setup. Since having a car in there, often disassembled, means limited floor space, I’m debating table saw options, or if I really need one. I have a festool track saw and a 17″ bandsaw, but I’m still thinking it’d be nice to have something to make consistent long rips or cut smaller boards. What do you think about using one of the smaller job site saws, like the Bosch 4100 or Dewalt 744? I can make a mount so it will attach to my assembly table in the center of the space, so it gives it a bigger outfeed table, but can still tuck it under out of the way when not in use. Are these saws worth it, assuming I slap on a better blade, given my situation? What would you do?Mike
  • Hey guys i was just doing some thinking about bevel down planes. Let’s say you have a 45 degree bedding angle in a bevel down configuration, if you were to sharpen the plane iron to 43 degrees. Because of the bed angle, the effective cutting angle would remain 45 degrees but would have much more “meat” behind the cutting edge it would hold an edge longer…. Right? Am i correct in this thinking or am i missing the reason/s everyone sharpens at a much lower angle.Milo
  • I’m currently working and managing a community based wood shop. I’ve been struggling with the place of dado blade and non-through cuts on the table saw in our shop. I can’t seem to find any riving knife/ splitter/ safety guard that can be used in these situations without getting in the way of the cuts. Can you explain to why this is? Also can you make any suggestions/ recommend any gadgets that would increase safety during these cuts?Ann

    ***SUGGESTED ITEMS:Featherboard, board buddies, Magswitch products, GRR-Ripper, push sticks
  • My question has come about while trying to build a piece for the pop wood readers contest. I have chosen to build a bookcase, did a quick sketch up, but I feel like even with prior drawings and plans I can’t get the proportions right. I feel the shelves are to clunky, and I’m a hobbyist and really don’t have the money or desire to make mock ups out of cheaper woods to dial everything in. What do you guys do when building a new piece? Is this just an inevitable truth about furniture building and building mock ups to bring everything together. —- Cory


  • Comments, questions or topic suggestions?

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