On today’s show, we’re talking about die grinders and burrs, PVC pipe, Forrest vs Freud, scraping after tearout, jointer bed length, granite top retrofits, back bevels, blade height, effects of finish on wood movement, and buying wood just because.
Stan – Just had a chance to listen to the show. This is in reference to #131 where a guy wanted to know about a severed finger box. Marc talked about it in his safety kit video. It wasn’t a box, but a baggie with the instant cold pack kind fits the bill. I am assuming that you snap something in the cold pack to mix two chemicals and create an endothermic reaction that makes it cold as opposed to keeping it in the freezer. If he really wants a box to transport it in, he’s a woodworker, right?; he could make one.
Vic has a question about die grinders.
Any thoughts on PVC for dust collection? I’ve heard it could theoretically spark a fire, but I wonder if that is more urban legend than anything else? Its cheap, easy to install and easily sealed so it would seem ideal. Central vac guys have used it inside houses for years, vacuuming all kinds of combustible material (ever set fire to a dust bunny…. good fun) and insurance companies still underwrite policies on those houses….. — Mike
I used to use table saw blades that I would buy from one of the home stores. A couple of years ago I bought a Freud LU83R blade and couldn’t believe what a difference it made in the quality of my cuts. My question is would I get an increase in performance from a more expensive blade like the Forrest Woodworker II? It’s about twice the price of the Freud, so is it worth that much more money? I’m certainly not dissatisfied with the Frued, I’m just wondering how much better it gets. — Matt
If you have a board that you’ve hand planed with 90% of the grain running one way and 10% running in the opposite direction and, in spite, of a sharp blade, wax, etc. you still have tear out, how to you use your scraper? Do you:
1. Plane the board with your smoother and then scrape the areas of tear out only?
2. Scrape the whole thing so you have the same surface?
3. Something else? — Marilyn
I wondering about jointer bed length vs. the material length. Everything I’ve found just says to get the longest jointer bed you can afford or have room for. I have a small shop and most of the time I work with boards that are less than 4 feet. I’m wondering what bed length I could get away with? When I do the occasional desk or table what affect will the short bed length have on the longer boards? I’m considering a short bed being under 60” and the long boards being 6 to 8 feet. — Jake
This is from the insane ideas department, so I figured you guys would be perfect to ask the question to. 😉 Matt talked about the granite top on his old tablesaw. I liked everything I heard, particularly how he didn’t have to worry as much about what he set down on it, and the extremely smooth surface. Have you heard of people retrofitting older tablesaw? Is it economically feasible? I wonder if all those local granite stores have the capability to cut in the dado slots, or even area for the blade inset though. I’ve also seen conversation into re-platting old tops with nickle or chrome. Nuts? —- Milo
I’m new to the bench plane world and to help I picked up the Vertias Mk-II honing guide. It clearly has instructions to put back bevels on blades but I’m not exactly sure which tools would need back bevels. Should this be something I use regularly or are back bevels a project specific item? — Thomas
How high should I raise my tablesaw blade above the work? Online I can find two suggestions. Either just barely clear the work, or let the gullets just clear the work. Neither makes sense to me. Just clearing the work seems like the cutting angle would be forward, not down. Factoring the gullets in seems nonsensical since the gullets are clear for 95 percent of the blade circle. The cutting angle seems best to me if the blade is as high as it can go. The cut should push the board down rather than forward, right? Yet nobody ever suggests raising the blade all the way up for cutting 3/4 stock. Why not? Help a new tablesaw owner out here. — Darryl
I’m building a solid wood table top and was wondering about how much movement I should expect across it’s width. I’ve been utilizing the woodshop app on my phone along with relative humidity and temperature to figure out how much movement I should expect. I was wondering if the numbers I get are on this app or similar resources online are based on unfinished wood and if I could expect less movement from a finished piece. I assume that the more finished the piece is the less movement I should get. Is this correct? If so, are there any resources you are aware of that take this into consideration? In case it helps, I’m planning on finishing my table top with about 5 coats of Minwax wipe on poly. — Manny
Last weekend I went to a local Woodworking show/expo for the first time and I was blown away with both the price and quality of the wood some mill’s had for sale. Compared to the rubbish I usually get from the home centre here the wood was so cheap and so beautifully figured. I had a bit of a brain overload moment with possibilities running through my head on projects. I was wondering if you guys tend to only go get wood from mills specifically for a project in mind, or do you stock up when you see a really nice piece? Also, what attributes do you look for in terms of picking one board over another? — Clinton