On today’s show, we’re talking about sharpening a Benchcrafted Skraper, purchasing the right rip blade, Sweetheart vs Bailey planes, “correct” way to store bench planes, upgrading a random orbital sander, coverings on assembly tables, & outdoor finish or pressure treated wood?
- **Announce Keystone Pub live show on Sat 10/19 from 7-10 Food and Drink and Fun**
- SketchUp 2013 – Free version called SketchUp Make
- Kari Hultman retires her blog “The Village Carpenter”.
- Sawtooth ideas www.sawtoothideas.com recently partnered with Woodcraft Magazine and Woodworker’s Journal to offer many of their most popular projects on its website and within IdeaRoom™.
Around the Web
- Video sent in by Marilyn – “The Porter Heavy Pattern Jointer” produced by Frank Howarth
- Video sent in by Ilias – Baking soda blasting a finish off a piece of furniture
- An oldie but goodie video sent in by Lee of an amazing expandable/contractable table
I have notice a topic that comes up often, and it came up again in last weeks show. That is to finish the bottom or not to finish the bottom, or inside of drawers or boxes. The callers are always worried about warping or some kind of wood movement. Yet I have not heard anybody talk about the WOW factor. When I deliver a table top to a customer and I’m unwrapping the top they often see the back first, and say wow look at that beautiful grain, and are even more thrilled when I turn it over to show them the top.
Having the bottom finished shows that you payed special attention to all details of your customers project, and customer are always very appreciative of your efforts. They will be reminded of them every time they feel the underside of the table as the pull up a chair for dinner. As a side benefit hopefully your extra effort will make someone think twice before sticking the gum to the underside of that table.
Mike from LA – Sharpening a Benchcrafted Skraper
Hey guys,I’m about to start my end grain cutting board project and I wanted to get your opinion on a blade. I have a brand new 24 tooth marples blade, but i’m wondering if this will give me a clean enough cut for lamination. Should i buy a glue line rip blade or do you think the standard rip blade will suffice. I’m making it out of 8/4 maple and 8/4 purpleheart. Thanks. You guys are the best. — Greg
I am looking to buy a smoothing plane and was thinking of getting an older Stanley. What is the difference between the Sweetheart and the Bailey is one better than the other? Thanks for the help. —- Glen
I have a question concerning bench planes. Is there a “correct” way to store them between uses? I’m in the habit of cleaning up my planes and wiping them down at the end of each session. I attach the chipbreaker to the iron with finger tightness and lie the assembly in the body of the plane with the cap loosely resting on top. The idea of leaving them set up under tension for long periods of time doesn’t seem right to me. Is there any danger of warping the irons or damaging the planes by storing them under tension? How are planes traditionally stored? Thanks. —- Todd
Hey guys, I am looking at upgrading my Random Orbital Sander, and I was wondering what your opinions where. I have yet to pony up the cash to buy into the festool universe but for this I would be willing. I doing woodworking full time and mainly making furniture. But the styles range from maloof to antique, to Shaker.
I have been mainly looking at three sanders Festool Rotex 125, Festool EST125, and the Mirka Ceros. What are your thoughts between those three? Or am I completely missing the boat and should get some other sander. (I don’t have the compressor to use air sanders so that option is out.) — Jens
I have a question about using coverings on the assembly table. I was watching some old episodes of Woodworks and noticed that David Marks used what looks like brown craft paper or something very similar to cover the table during glue-ups. It seems like this should stick to the project like crazy but I never see him have a problem on the show. What’s the secret? —- Jim
I am planning to build an outdoor play tower for my kids. I thought dimensional lumber will do the trick for a fair price. It needs to withstand the elements (Vancouver, BC) I am wondering if I should go with an outdoor finish or better go with pressure treated wood? As I have no idea what is used for pressure treatment I am skeptical if it is good and safe for kids to play with. The alternative is to apply an outdoor type finish and luckily there are several options on the market. The question for me is, will an outdoor type finish last as long as the description promises or are there alternative products that will do the trick and make the play tower outlast the time my kids will play on it? I guess another option is to refinish the wood every other year or so but that is surely not too easy to do and I would prefer to not touch the finish for the years to come. —Tobias
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