Wood Talk No. 142

July 31, 20130 Comments

On today’s show, we’re talking about making a Ouija Board, low angle planes on figured woods, olive oil on kitchen items, old log wood, foam brush on live edge and keeping tool tops spotless.

Wood Talk

What’s New

  • Jonathan sent in a link to an awesome Escher inspired chess board. “I found this video of someone making a Escher inspired chessboard. I think the most interesting part of the video is how he clamps the lamination together… with his CAR!”
  • Kenji sent a video about dovetails made with a tablesaw jig, thanks to the folks at Woodworker’s Journal
  • Thanks to @Aszurom from the Bad Movie Podcast.Gaming Table is awesomesauce!.
  • Lamar sent a link to a free design course coming this fall. Might be good to help train people on the basics of design. CLICK HERE FOR DESCRIPTION.
  • Preston sent a link to a video saying “…If that was me running a bandsaw that quick I am sure I would lose a digit…” Two Minute Reindeer
  • Jameel from Benchcrafted posted Pure woodworking entertainment: Benchcrafted’s FORP video.


  • JerrySomeone has asked me to make an artistic wood version of a Ouija Board. I am going to woodburn designs and do a little carving. But my question is, What should I make the board out of? If I make it as thin as a regular game board the wood may very well warp and cup. If I use some kind of plywood I really don’t want anyone to be able to tell it is made of ply. So what do you all think would be my best approach?
  • ChrisI am going to purchase either the Veritas Low Angle Smooth Plane or the Veritas #4 Smooth Plane. I work a lot on cherry and maple. I will occasionally work on these woods that are curly. Due to the occasional figure that I work with, I am wondering if I am short changing myself if I were to purchase the Low Angle Plane. How does this plane perform on non-figured woods? Is there any difference in the finish that will be achieved in non-figured wood between the two planes.
  • AndyI’m making a bookcase and the shelves have a live edge. I’m wondering what is the best way to finish it. I tried a foam brush and diluted poly. When I was done all I had was the foam brush stick:). The bark had a “cheese grater” effect which was not the outcome I was going for. Help! I’m thinking of purchasing an hvlp sprayer. Would this be the way to go?
  • TimI was recently in Italy where olive oil is rather abundant to say the least. One of the shops that peaked my curiosity was a small wood craft oriented store whom sold cutting boards made from olive trees. The cutting boards had the most delicious smell of guess what…olive oil and were beautiful as well. My question does olive wood smell like olive oil, or did they use the olive oil to finish the cutting board, like I would with mineral oil, with the added benefit of smelling like something out of the best Italian kitchens?
  • JaredHey guys, I’m getting ready to attempt to build my first bed. I visited my local boutique sawmill where I get always buy my lumber. The owner mentioned Heart Pine and that the logs are over 100 years old. I did a bit of research and found that heart pine is just the name of heartwood from extremely old growth (mostly longleaf) pine. Apparently the stuff hasn’t been harvested for over a century. When he said that, i became intrigued because how cool would it be to make a bed out of wood you can’t really get anymore.

    My question relates to wood movement. He told me the wood is still in logs but he can put them on his woodmizer and cut them to any dimension I want. So if the log is over 100 years old, do I assume its as dry as its going to get? I just wonder if he cuts them for me and I take the boards home, what are the chances of the wood moving on me?

  • BrianSetting the stage: Its hot, its near 100% humidity, and I sweat all over my tools. I recently purchased two new Lie-Nielsen planes. As soon as I got them I applied some paste wax to each. Each day when I’m done using them I wipe them down with a rag with Camilia oil. I came back from a long weekend out of town and found one of the planes had some surface marks on the one side. I assume this is from sweat / body oil? I tried some #0000 steel wool but that didn’t get completely off. I also have several spots on my table saw table with the same spots. On these (table saw) I’ve used WD40 and 320 grit sand paper and I can never seem to get them fully off. These are purely cosmetic, but I like to keep my machines looking as new as possible. What do you suggest I do?
    ***My suggestion – Glidecote***

Comments, questions or topic suggestions?

      SKYPE – Woodtalkonline.
      Voicemail – (623) 242-5180.
      Email – woodtalkonline@gmail.com
      Wood Talk Facebook page.

Special thanks to our show sponsors: Festool at FestoolUSA.com, www.sawstop.com.

For the rest of the shownotes including any links, voicemails, and emails; along with contact information and downloads for today’s episode, visit www.woodtalkshow.com.

Help support the show – please visit our advertisers

Filed in: Wood Talk
Tagged with:

Leave a Reply

Back to Top