Save 50% Storewide at Shop Woodworking

Wood Talk Online No. 102 “Hold on loosely…to your saw”

August 10, 20120 Comments

On today’s show, we’re sharing some great links from around the web and we’ll answer a bunch of your emails. It’s all about the email today baby!

Shannon: Went deep into the bowels of the internet to find the right way to cut a complex butt joint by hand.
Matt: Attempted to sharpen his own saw since his professionally sharpened models were swiped from the front porch.
Marc: Interviewed Paul Schurch – Marquetry master extraordinaire,

Release of Bob Lang’s new compilation of Craftsman Furniture Shop Drawings – “Great Book of Shop Drawings for Craftsman Furniture” now available. For a sneak peek at all the great drawings and information in this new book checkout the digital version of the table of content – CLICK HERE

IWF 2012 Education schedule – while the conference is geared more towards the industry, there’s plenty of opportunities for woodworking education CLICK HERE.

Lie-Nielsen FaceBook page – Roy Underhill’s custom single-stroke dovetail saw – “Our saw maker, Patrick, faced the formidable task of hand sharpening 450 saw teeth.” 30” long, 15ppi. Get your order in soon??? CLICK HERE

Plywood pricing and grading


Hey guys,

First off, Awesome show. I am new to woodworking and my future wife has FINALLY given me permission to build a couple of simple tables for our upcoming wedding. However, she would like them to look old and antique. Through minor research I have seen people using a solution of vinegar and steel wool to distress wood. I am pretty sure I can take some aggression out on the wood to make it look old, but I am lost when it comes to finishing. How do I make these tables look like they were made 100 years ago.



P.S. I look forward to listening to your podcast after I return from the dentist.

I’m building a tea box for my nana and i’ve been trying to cut dovetails in some scrap soft maple. i’m using a crown gent’s saw but no matter how careful i am i can’t seem to get the cut without gaps (mostly further down in the cut). Is it me pushing down to hard and causing the blade to move preventing a nice plumb cut, or is the gent’s saw blade simply too flexible? In a way i’m hoping it is so i have an excuse to buy the Veritas dovetail saw haha.

Greg DiMarzio

I am in the process of building a baby doll cradle out of plywood scraps that I had leftover. I’m trying to use templates and a flush trim bit in the router table to get consistent curves in the front, back, and sides. First attempts have just been awful. I expected the usual plywood tearout, but I am finding that once I remove the template from plywood, the veneer is actually pulling off completely about 2 – 3 inches from the edge in a few spots. Add to that the process of removing double-sided mounting tape from already peeling veneer, and I’m sure you can get the picture. The bit is relatively new and sharp. The plywood is birch veneer from a hardwood dealer with thicker veneer and much nicer plys than the home center stuff. Do you guys have any thoughts on what I might do to prevent (or at least minimize this) before I attempt the other pieces? The router is set to the highest speed. Should I slow it down? What about template fastening methods? Anything that might be easier to remove than double sided mounting tape?


[haiku url=”″ title=”WTOR102″]

Download Audio

Help support the show – please visit our advertisers

Filed in: Wood Talk
Tagged with:

Leave a Reply

Back to Top