On today’s show, we’re sharing some great links from around the web and we’ll answer a bunch of your emails. It’s all about the email today baby!
WHAT’S ON THE BENCH?:
Shannon: Went deep into the bowels of the internet to find the right way to cut a complex butt joint by hand.
Matt: Attempted to sharpen his own saw since his professionally sharpened models were swiped from the front porch.
Marc: Interviewed Paul Schurch – Marquetry master extraordinaire, www.schurchwoodwork.com/
AROUND THE WEB:
Release of Bob Lang’s new compilation of Craftsman Furniture Shop Drawings – “Great Book of Shop Drawings for Craftsman Furniture” now available. For a sneak peek at all the great drawings and information in this new book checkout the digital version of the table of content – CLICK HERE
IWF 2012 Education schedule – while the conference is geared more towards the industry, there’s plenty of opportunities for woodworking education CLICK HERE.
Lie-Nielsen FaceBook page – Roy Underhill’s custom single-stroke dovetail saw – “Our saw maker, Patrick, faced the formidable task of hand sharpening 450 saw teeth.” 30” long, 15ppi. Get your order in soon??? CLICK HERE
Plywood pricing and grading article – www.mcilvain.com/plywood-grading-confusion/
First off, Awesome show. I am new to woodworking and my future wife has FINALLY given me permission to build a couple of simple tables for our upcoming wedding. However, she would like them to look old and antique. Through minor research I have seen people using a solution of vinegar and steel wool to distress wood. I am pretty sure I can take some aggression out on the wood to make it look old, but I am lost when it comes to finishing. How do I make these tables look like they were made 100 years ago.
P.S. I look forward to listening to your podcast after I return from the dentist.
I’m building a tea box for my nana and i’ve been trying to cut dovetails in some scrap soft maple. i’m using a crown gent’s saw but no matter how careful i am i can’t seem to get the cut without gaps (mostly further down in the cut). Is it me pushing down to hard and causing the blade to move preventing a nice plumb cut, or is the gent’s saw blade simply too flexible? In a way i’m hoping it is so i have an excuse to buy the Veritas dovetail saw haha.
I am in the process of building a baby doll cradle out of plywood scraps that I had leftover. I’m trying to use templates and a flush trim bit in the router table to get consistent curves in the front, back, and sides. First attempts have just been awful. I expected the usual plywood tearout, but I am finding that once I remove the template from plywood, the veneer is actually pulling off completely about 2 – 3 inches from the edge in a few spots. Add to that the process of removing double-sided mounting tape from already peeling veneer, and I’m sure you can get the picture. The bit is relatively new and sharp. The plywood is birch veneer from a hardwood dealer with thicker veneer and much nicer plys than the home center stuff. Do you guys have any thoughts on what I might do to prevent (or at least minimize this) before I attempt the other pieces? The router is set to the highest speed. Should I slow it down? What about template fastening methods? Anything that might be easier to remove than double sided mounting tape?
Filed in: Wood Talk Online